I love to do bobbin work which is working with a heavier thread in the bobbin, sewing on the reverse side so the bobbin thread shows on the right side.
Sometimes it feels a little awkward. I've heard students say things like - "it's like working backwards or blindly", but once you get beyond that, it's really great fun and quite easy. It's especially pretty when you set your machine for a decorative stitch and use the heavier thread. It's almost looks like beading as you can see in the details above and below.
or sometimes just a straight stitch to emphasize the shape of something like in the petals below.
To start, you need to have 2 different threads in the same color - the heavier couching thread and the top thread which can be decorative or a regular sewing thread. The threadwork is strictly decorative so using a rayon thread in the top which is a weak thread will work fine. There are many good couching threads available - YLI has Candlelight, Madeira has Glamour, and Razzle Dazzle by Superior. All are heavier threads and need to be used in the bobbin, they will not fit through the eye of a needle. Below is Candlelight and a matching color rayon. You can also use a monofilament in the top.
Because the threads have different weights, the thinner thread will wrap itself around the heavier thread and be seen, so it is necessary to use matching or clear thread on top.
One of the reasons I love Candlelight and use it in my workshops is because 99% of the time, no adjustment is needed on the bobbincase. I know many fear touching the bobbincase tension. If you like doing this kind of work, it's good to invest in an extra case for that purpose. It's easy to adjust using the little screwdriver that comes with your machine.
On the removeable bobbincases, the screw is where you see it in the picture, to tighten, turn right, to loosen, turn left (remember...lefty loosy, righty tighty). The screw in a bobbincase is very short so work with a cloth underneath you - if it should fall out, you will find it easily.
Set your machine for a decorative stitch - this may take some experimenting - ones that look great in a normal weight thread don't always work in a heavier thread. When I first started doing this, I made a sampler and labeled the stitch # - a little time consuming but a good reference down the road.
Pull up your bobbin thread, feed dogs up and traditional sewing foot on.
Before taking the first stitch, pull the bobbin thread up through the fabric so you can see both threads (on wrong side). This will avoid a tangling or mess underneath (on right side). Start stitching using the marked line as a guide. The easiest way to do this is to watch the little groove going down the middle of the presser foot - make sure it's on the marked line.
And the fun part - to flip it over to the right side and see the pretty results.
Have fun!
For each unit cut the following:
If you have a directional print, make sure it's going in the right direction when you place it in the unit.
On 2 of these blocks, add a bright solid that measures 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" so it looks like the block below.
Follow the diagram below to assemble the units into bigger blocks of 12" - this is 1 unit. For the smaller quilt, sew 3 units together to make rows 1 and the same for row 3 following the layout below. It's more interesting when assembled to alternate each row so rows 1 & 3 are the same and rows 2 & 4 are the same. 
Sew 3 of these units together to make rows 2 & 4 which is a mirror image of rows 1 & 3.
After completing the rows, sew rows 1 & 2 together, 3 & 4 together and then both halves together to make your quilt top. Have fun!
Another material is linoleum (below, left) and quite difficult to cut. There is also "Easy to Cut Lino" which I haven't tried yet but am sure is easier than regular linoleum.
A great, fun and easy to cut surface is a gum eraser. The pink erasers are more dense than gum erasers and probably hold up longer. The main drawback is the size - very small so they have their limitations.
"Mastercarve" is my favorite material for carving. It's available in art stores and often craft stores. It's easy to carve and doesn't crumble. You can buy a big piece - 9" x 12" or smaller pieces. Another plus - it's thick enough so you can carve every side, which we did making it more economical.
You can also use rubber gaskit material from the plumbing department of a home improvement store. It was an interesting material, a little more difficult to cut and quite thin so you could only use the one side, but reasonable in price.
We all used the Speedball cutter which is easy to use and find. I like the fact that it has many interchangeable tips for cutting different width lines.
Designs for stamps was next - wow, the ideas are endless. If you can draw, you can rely on your own abilities. You can also use books or other sources - they're everywhere. One idea was to scan a photo, put it in a photo editing program and turn it into a line drawing. The Dover coloring books full of copyrite free images is another possibility. Below - a page from one of their books.
There were several ways to transfer the image for carving. One method was to use an image printed from a laser printer. You need the toner so an inkjet printer won't work.
Place the image face down on block. Wet a cotton ball with Acetone - nail polish remover and gently rub over the back of the image.
The Acetone will release the image onto the block - not perfect but clear enough for carving!
There are times when using a laser image isn't convenient and you want to do it NOW! An alternative to the above is to color the back of an image with graphite. Everyone has a pencil around the house, so this is easy. If you have one with exceptionally soft lead - even better!
Turn the image over, place on material to be carved and using a stylus type of instrument, firmly press along the lines of the image.
The image is transferred very easily.
One of my favorite things about hand carved stamps is something called "Eraser Trails". When carving away the negative space to make the image protrude more, oftentimes, there are lines left behind. It's impossible to get the negative space perfect. These lines show up when you print the stamp.The stamp below is one I carved awhile back with eraser trails on it.
To stamp, put paint in a recycled styrofoam plate or on a piece of freezer paper. Roll a brayer into the paint to cover it but not too thick; apply the paint to the stamp...
and press onto fabric. Sometimes, it's more effective to lay the stamp down as you see above (right side up) with the fabric on top and press. Both produce an image but the latter seems to have a darker image.
Another hint is to use a purchased stamp and....
apply paint. Next, press the stamp onto carving material
and carve a stamp using this image. I know - why would you do this with a pre-cut stamp. Well, if you love the look of the "Eraser Trails" and happen to like the pre-cut image, it's an interesting way to go. I do love the look of handmade stamps. Purchased ones are nice, convenient and have their place, but there's nothing that can replace one made with your own hands.